Monday, February 16, 2015

Behind

Any great restaurant, chef, is a service team and manager whom both understand the concept of the chef and are full in on the idea of the food.

Without that, you haven't anything at all.

Sunday, December 14, 2014

Life

is all about angles. The angle which you look at something. The angle you slice a piece of meat. The angle the vine is planted on the hill. A small deviation from the desired outcome leads you to a completely different place.

Saturday, December 13, 2014

We

Work to make it by. But why is it that we don't work to live?

Monday, December 8, 2014

The small details

I think often we put so much work, time, effort into the smallest of details that seemingly 99% of guests would never recognize the difference in.

But I think the 1% that do, it makes it from a great to euphoric moment, the moment that it all maybe makes sense, the moment where the plate is perfect and truly memorable.

Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Tomorrow

Some years ago, a bit over seven, is where my story of working in restaurants and cooking began. I had miraculously been offered a job at a French brasserie in Richmond, and was surely an admirable restaurant rookie at the time.

One of our Sous Chef's had come from New York City and was a fantastic cook and better mentor. Currently, he is at The French Laundry in California. Sometime during my tenure, he brought to my attention the Wednesday New York Times, and enlightened me on the dining section and food critic, at the time Frank Bruni. He taught me about the weight the reviewer carries and the paper not only in New York City but around the world. and about how he always bought a copy on the way to work in New York City. So, following my newly gained knowledge, every Wednesday before school I would stop by the convenience store on the way to school and buy a copy of the paper, $2.10. I would look forward to reading it and seeing who the review was of, perhaps I had heard of the restaurant. It was the best day of the week for me, and I soon too felt the weight of the paper and the reviewer. As I would work on Wednesdays, I would bring Chef Joe the copy ever week (I learned a lesson one week of not having it and the disappoint he felt!) and he would read it and then we would talk about the review, the restaurant.

Since those days I have been an avid follower and acknowledge the weight of the "Grey Lady; All the News Fit to Print." Full circle, tomorrow our review comes out here at Racines. Following three visits, we are very hopeful that the current reviewer Pete Wells will be kind to us and award us a positive review (we are of course wishing for 3*, but firmly content and elated with a solid 2*). What a feeling it will be tomorrow to see our humble restaurant following three months of service and dedication by our small team in the New York Times! A dream, and closure of a lifelong dream. Be sure to wish for us, send us Champagne, and check out the article online tomorrow and in print Wednesday. Thank you Chef Joe distilling in me at a young age an appreciation for the true and highest authority in the restaurant industry, the New York Times.

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Where

My mind and soul are. Where my food lies!

NYtimes, "Virginia's Lost History"

Thursday, June 26, 2014

People

with caring, feeling, emotion,

do they exist anymore?

Are you anywhere out there?

Monday, May 5, 2014

The lessons you carry with;

Not long ago I was a soccer player. For a short tenure of my career as a soccer player, I had a certain young coach who wasn't the best, but a certain lesson was garnered from him.

Thinking back, I seem to think I had this coach for two years time. In no way was he a good coach for soccer or a whole team, we would get screamed at during half time(this was serious soccer leagues.) But I did learn one lesson that has been applicable to life. One that was drilled into us everyday, one that you carry with you.

Always, give it your all. As he would say, "110%." Every, single, day, he would say this. And never had I realized that how important it was or that I had taken it upon myself until the Tuesday night practice after a tournament when at the beginning we were told to stand on the line. He began to ask whom had been substituted during the first game and if the answer was yes, they were to sit. Again with the second. Third. And finally the fourth game, the Championship game, who had been substituted during the game, and if yes, to sit. Who was still standing? Just me? Weird. He pointed it out, in front of the whole team. Why was Collin the only one standing? Because he thought I had been giving it my all, no matter the circumstance, 100% at all times. and that's it. He went as far to say that should you have energy or spirit to run off the field at the end of a game you didn't work hard enough during the game. And this is the way I feel after a difficult dinner service that requires 110% percent concentration. No, I won't clean up quickly. My brain and emotion is shot, and drained. I just gave my all to the service, and haven't much left. It doesn't matter your skill level or intelligence in the end, should you give it your all to a difficult task, in the end promise and success will come.

I carry this philosophy with me in the kitchen. No matter the day circumstance or "weeds" you should be in, if you give it your all in the end no one can be mad at you. You might not be quick enough but who cares, that's you and you worked as hard as humanly possible. That's it.

Kitchen work is hard and grueling. Should you work hard enough respect will come and no matter the circumstance those around you will notice.

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Evolution of a Restaurant

One of the craziest weeks of my life, opening a restaurant this has been. 

Fun. Hard. Exciting. Scary. Push.

This restaurant is one incredible place already, and what we have accomplished is just the beginning. 

The journey of evolution of what will come will be one remarkable thing to watch and be a part of.

All the best from NYC and a Happy Easter. 

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

New York City

"If you want to gamble, where do you go? Las Vegas. If you want to cook or be a professional in the service industry among the best, where do you go? New York City." ....

Thursday, January 2, 2014

Top 10 Wines of 2013

I drink a lot of wine, and over this past year have been able to share many great bottles with an array of people. In part to remember for my own sake, and also maybe one or two of you out there might be interested, I have narrowed the best down from memory to ten wines from this past year. Four white, four red, and two sparkling one being true Champagne and the other from elsewhere. If you get the chance to taste these wines, do it!

Whites

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol 2011-

Tasted in the Spring soon after its arrival, this wine instantly hit me. It was a nice Spring early afternoon turning to night, and upon opening the aromatics were intense and beckoned you to pay attention. Ah! How could a ~$30.00 wine be so grand and great!! Flint, smoke, cool Loire air, turning into mineral with nice acidity. In my mind I could picture the Loire River, meandering through vineyards and seeing a house in the distance billowing smoke from its chimney, with that and the fresh river air, the nose was made. Impeccable. The way Sauvignon Blanc should be.

Clemens Busch Marienburg 1er Felseterracen 2008-

Consumed after harvesting this historic and breathtaking vineyard, Felseterracen is the Busch family's prized plot. 80+ pre-phylloxera vines terraced between two dramatic gagged stone formations on an intense slope of the Marienburg Mountain. Light blue slate makes up the soil. Electric laser acidity in the mouth! Think the scene from Moonraker where they are fighting in space with lasers. No malolactic here. Acidity and coolness gives way to minerality that is unmistakable. This will be even more amazing with age.



Scholium Project Phillips Farm "Rhododactylos" 2011-

Named after the Goddess of Dawn, with the colour to match. Chef Tucker at the Clifton and I had ordered an eight pack of wines from Abe at Scholium following the brilliant New York Times article on the winery and Abe, and were slowly working our way through the wines after work. If you have ever had or seen his wines before, you know that the labels are all similar in that it may say the name of the wine or vineyard site, but doesn't tell you much more than that. Tucker and I would mostly go in blind with them, and read about them after to figure out what was special about the wine and where and from what it was made from. We popped this bottle, and began tasting. Almond, a little oxidative, but acidity and the clutch to make you want more. So mooreish, quaffable, attention grabbing, just, utterly unbelievably delicious! I hadn't any idea what I was drinking, I just knew that I loved it and could drink it till eternity's end. After a quick search, with disbelief we were drinking 140 year old vine Cinsault, from California! Wow! Made with a little skin contact, Tucker called it from the beginning that there was bit of tone in the pigment of the wine, a slight sparkle of orange-ish to pink, to drink until dawn.

Donnhoff Grauburgunder Trocken 2011-

Surprising. Cleansing. Refreshing! Made from the greatest winemaker in the world in my opinion, this was drunk in the wee hours in the morning at Maision Ilan in Nuits-St-Georges, Burgundy. We had been sorting all day (Monts Luisant if memory serves..) and were finally getting cleaned up. We had gone through a bunch of bottles that day, including other wines from Donnhoff ('08 Oberhauser Brucke Eisweine,) but this was really singing and so, so refreshing and delicious. Nothing to think about and nothing out of place, just a clean straightforward wine that was firing on all cylinders at the moment on a damp cold night in Burgundy.



Reds

Henri Gouges "Clos des Porrets" Premier Cru 1957-

A word to the wise, when opening something as epic as this don't wait till the end of the night. Last night working at Maison Ilan with Ray Walker, whom works out of Henri Gouges old house and cellar. He left a few bottles that were there when Ray started renting the place, this being one of them. Drank on the same day as my mom's birthday, from her birth year. Jaw dropping. Still intact.  Brown leather, dark old red cherry and deep anise-y spices ground into a mortar and pestle. Potpourri.  Still some acidity. How much longer could this live on for?!

Olivier Cousin Grolleau Vielles Vignes 2010-

First meal out after days of intense harvest work and little to eat in Burgundy. It was luxurious and needed to have a warm meal, and we decided to go to "Les Comptoir des Tontons" in Beaune following a recommendation from my friend. I have been seeking out Cousin's wines for sometime after reading about his fight with the government over AOC rules and him scoffing the system. This wine was 18E!!! on the list and I forced the table to agree to ordering it. (We were in Burgundy after all, and they were just as educated in wine as me, so I had to be forceful to get what I wanted!) Right as this was being poured the first courses came, and the pairing was a hit. I had ordered a braised tripe dish that was sitting in a pool of gelatin rich jus, and the wine ceremoniously stood right alongside it. This wine was pure funk. Black olives and gripping tannin followed by steel and copper. Dark and deep looking in the glass with an edge of neon purple on the lip. So fun to drink, a brilliant and just great wine from an honest farmer in the Loire. So utterly cheap! A reminder that great wine doesn't have to be expensive to be life changing. Search it out!

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin aux Echezeaux Vielles Vignes 2008-

Taken blind against 2? other wines during an afternoon in Burgundy. The other was a Henri Jouan from same vineyard site and year?(memory is foggy). The Jouan was nice, easy going, bright fruit and easy to digest. (As I soon came to perceive all of his wines as.) The Fourrier on the other hand was in a tough spot. It had so much to tell, so much power sitting in the glass. It wasn't expressing it at the time, but it was there. It was emanating and contagious. On that day I was singular being the only one that enjoyed this more than the Jouan, and it was without a doubt in my opinion the clear winner. It was so intense, so focused, perhaps confused at this time, but the wine was a thinking and one day will be so brilliant. It makes me excited to this day, and confused at the same time. I hope to revisit it one day in the future, and see how far along it has come. These are the wines that make you love wine, ones that don't show everything, they seduce you and for the true wine lovers, make you come back for more. 

Domaine Francois Berthaeu Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2010-

Blind, same day as the Fourrier above. Enamored. Pure pinot. I hadn't a clue what was in my glass, only that it was the purest and most beautiful expression of pinot that I had ever tasted. Cherry, anise, and herbaceous. The room fell silent and the air was tense-everyone was pulsing. This wine was beautiful. 

Sparkling

Vigneto Saetti Lambrusco Rose 2011-

Man oh man this wine is utterly delicious. Drank on multiple occasions. Beautiful pink hue, strawberry but a bit darker. Flush mousse with yeast acid driven pink and red fruits. My god this is just a beautiful and delicious wine, drinkable everyday and reminds you why you love wine so much. A true crowd pleaser! 

Jerome Prevost La Closerie "Fac-Similie" Extra Brut Rose 2010-

I have a giant crush on this producer, and last year searched out this rare bottling for my birthday present to myself. The regular "Les Beguines" bottling is absolutely beautiful and search worthy, and this is no exception either. 100% Pinot Meunier, I wish we had decanted this or given it more time and attention. Nonetheless a beautiful rose Champagne, bread, yeast, and ripe red stone fruit and roses on the nose. Oh my is this a fantastic wine. I hope to taste one day a bottle with some age on it, and I hope in 2014 I will get the chance to taste this again. Heaven is found here. Who doesn't love rose champagne???

Sunday, August 11, 2013

Success

What is success in life?

Money? A good/great/acclaimed job? Happiness? Material things?

Is it nothing more that a fleeting moment of reaching a milestone? What do you do when you reach it, quit working, or work harder, longer?

Saturday, August 10, 2013

Rough Start

With in the beginning getting use to the kitchen once again, coupled with the time change and accelerated pace and long days that I wasn't accustomed to, its been a rough start. Add on to that my hands having multiple cuts infected on em, (mostly my left, since last Friday) from stupid nicks that happen when you are working in a fast pace environment. I've never had an infected cut in my life! Why oh why now. The biggest is on my left pointing finger, a pretty vital finger that slows me down a bit, makes me look quite clumsy cause I can't open a container at a fast speed with an ever tender opening finger.

Maybe I'm just being a pussy, but its been a difficult first two weeks. And now the past two days having not been able to work due to the infected finger(they have to be very cautious as of late since the noro virius outbreak), its left me stranded with not a single person I know about and in a city where everything is beyond fathomable prices! (Average coffee 6-8$, beer 4-8$, minimum on a cheap meal 22$+.) It's been nice weather but with a slight fever and achy body re:finger, I've slept a lot(which is great because you're not spending money when you dream!).

In the end, if I get offered a job I will be happy, but know it will be a long road ahead. 17 hours a day is a lot! Week after week. Never being able to get ahead. It will be good for me and the future, but will take its toll on my body and likely my heart for cooking. Maybe this is just a beginning outlook, maybe things would become more routine and easy over time.

If I don't get offered a job, it will suck because of the time, money, and work that I put into getting here. But there are many other things out there, and "easier" paths to take. But I don't want to disappoint! A shitty situation.


Friday, May 31, 2013

All in the little things

Subtlety-the further down the path, the more the little things become all the more important. The fine tuning. Nuance! Awareness of temperatures, weather, seasons and aromas. No longer is the mere completion the end, but the evolution and mere touches a step forward. Take it all in. Absorb. It will all come together.

Monday, January 21, 2013

Hey!

Why is everyone in this world and even more so in the restaurant world so cynical? And arrogant? And condescending?

Think before you say stuff next time. If its not positive, don't say it, ass hole.


Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Humility

Perhaps the greatest thing I learned in 2012 is humility. Acquired and toned through my time at The Clifton Inn, primarily through our guiding father Tucker Yoder, it has been a lesson and principle that I will not lose site of or forget any time soon.

So much of the world seems to be run by arrogance and boasting of ones self, and then you find those whom live quite a comfortable life yet complain or want things that are total luxury. If only we could all thing about those who don't know what they are going to eat next!!!! Or those washing dishes in New York City at a slamming restaurant for minimum wage everyday.

Caffeine? Alcohol? Fine coffee, fine wine? All luxury. Simple pleasures that we all don't need everyday, but imbibe on because we can.

Put's it all in perspective, think about others before complaining about yourself next time.

And think about those working for minimum wage or low pay, while cooking for the wealthy and extreme opposite next time.

The restaurant business is upside down in all ways possible.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Fall is here..

An excerpt from a letter I penned earlier today, perhaps a little poetic but frames my current state of mind...

"I have forgotten how much I love fall and how much nostalgia comes with it! I can smell it in the air. The trees are nearly at their breaking point, about to erupt into the beautiful shades of orange. The summer tomatoes are nearly done, and we are starting to see varieties of pumpkins and squashes arrive on our cutting boards. My desire has changed from refreshing dishes to heartier, and I find myself grabbing for more spices, namely the omnipresent fall spices. White wine is being exchanged for red, and warm soups are running through my mind. And I find that I am needing to bring my sweaters to Charlottesville."


Tuesday, July 10, 2012

A Reminder

Last night, we had the couple who married the previous night on site dining at the chef's counter in the kitchen. As with protocol for the counter, with chef's tastings as they did, and with those who celebrated such a momentous occasion on site, we plan and treat the guests with extra attention and courses.

With the idea of champagne sorbet for one of our desserts, I had planned to make it the previous day, but realized that it could be a very celebratory starter and item.

The couple came in and sat, and they were both glowing with happiness and excitement. We said hellos and congratulations, and I began to plate up the champagne sorbet with a multitude of flowers that I had picked through the garden; Borage, Filabert, Rose, Mint, Oregano, ...., and I served the dish to them. The wife was expounding with happiness, exclaiming about how beautiful the dish was and how perfect (the night) , and everything was.

Goosebumps came, and instantly I remembered why I cook. Perhaps her happiness wasn't so much our food and company, but still it hit quite hard. She would remember this night the rest of her life, and I was glad that I could somehow positively affect it.


Tuesday, July 3, 2012

A few years ago...

I began to realize the inherent attachment and love of the Tidewater region of Virginia, specifically nearing the Northern Neck, Rappahannock and Potomac rivers. Fostered from a young age, I have annual memories of the trip east from Richmond, through flatlands of first woodlands, into Pine and farmland, en route to my best friend's "River House" along a inlet to the Potomac River.

Memories of the times on the river, and the delicious bites echo inside me, creating an itching to get out there each year, and now the thought of one day perhaps a restaurant there.

If I were given one last meal in the world, it would likely include urchin, potatoes, and a very large table of perfectly steamed blue crabs(perhaps one or two soft shells) washed down with a Yuengling.

The growing awareness of the food around me and those cooking it has brought about the idea that no one is taking advantage of the bounty surrounding the bay. The fresh fish, crabs, oysters, and the produce growing on its banks. I think the region could become what Breton is to France, and that idea exhilarates me. (Investors, please inquire within.)



I have recently relocated to Charlottesville, VA, and am working at the Clifton Inn and thoroughly enjoying my times thus far. Although I haven't anyone on my days off to spend my time with, and no car to boot, the time has been promising.

I have the interest in harvests once again in France (Rhone and Champagne,) Italy, this coming fall, and we will see what comes of that. And the ever insatiable desire to travel to Vietnam, and Breton....

Nearly daily that I am working, I am to come up with the Amuse Bouche at work. Recently, I found in the acres behind the restaurant Reindeer Moss growing, I crispified it and served it with mushroom puree...turned out to be a tasty bite.


Thanks for reading. Check back soon.

Monday, April 23, 2012

Links of Interest

Below are a few items of various interest. 

http://www.terracycle.net/en-US/brigades/solo-cup-brigade.html

Awesome program to recycle solo cups that will get reused for puppies water bowls, money goes to charity, and with prepaid shipping at no cost to yourself! 

Above, a photo showing vineyards in same field with the contrasting difference
of the left field the owner choosing not to use fertilizers, and the right, does.
Which wine would you rather drink??



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EUAMe2ixCI
Ted Talks by Dan Barber, Chef/Owner of Blue Hill in New York, a restaurant based on fresh and local food, done beautifully. A speech about a thriving ecosystem, beyond worthy of a watch. 


http://www.onthefutureoffood.org/the-speech

Future of food speech given by His Royal Highness of Wales, Prince Charles. Thought provoking and incredible speech about how in danger the future of food is.


TedX by Rene Redzepi, Chef/Owner of Noma in Copenhagen. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KkWF5E0Wlg