Monday, July 11, 2011

At a loss..





 View from Cabris...

As to what a new post should be....don't want to do an old update of the happenings day and day out here, as it is a bit repetitive... imagination and creativity have been flowing the last two days, however.

The past two days have been the best here thus far..

                      Some pictures to sustain all hundreds of my dedicated and passionate readers...

Violet Macaroon in Grasse..




Lavender; everywhere..












wild fennel grows..




markets in Cabris..



Kitchen. 

Now Listening: Rhianna-Man Down

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Quotes, To Live By

Some of my favorite quotes;

"When you acknowledge, as you must, that there is no such thing as perfect food, only the idea of it, then the real purpose of striving toward perfection becomes clear: to make people happy, that is what cooking is all about." -Thomas Keller


"..Firm in the knowledge that there is nothing so satisfying to the spirit, so defining of our character than giving our all to a difficult task." -Barack Obama


You can’t let a little press delude you into thinking you’re great. I like to stay downstairs, thinking I suck and pushing myself so I get better and better. If you believe your press, your learning curve stops.” -Dale Reitzer


"Flavor is memory"-Ferran Adria


"Live Passionately" -State of Virginia


"Butter, Love, and Hardwork"-Chris Ford


"Simplicity is complexity revisited."-Rj Cooper III


"I love you"-Family and Friends






A post from France, pictures, and video tour of the village to come soon. Thanks for reading.  


-COLLIN

Sunday, June 19, 2011

On Hors d'œuvre

Time after time I find hor d'œuvre at any type of function to be lackluster at best. With hot dishes being passed and becoming cold after time, uninspired flavors, same items time and time again, and lacking in execution, I set out to become creative and try some new things.

                                                                                                                                         

"Chips and Salsa"-Corn Tortillas stamped and baked in muffin tins to create a bowl, filled with a beautiful Pico de Gallo, topped with tomato water foam.

"Shrimp Cocktail"-Pickled horseradish strips wrapped around broiled shrimp, nestled in a hollowed cherry tomato. One bite with no sauce to dip into, but flavors the same as Shrimp cocktail.

"Macaroni and Cheese"-A personal favorite dish of mine, in its modern form especially exciting me. Toasted bread crumb Cappelletti, Chedder and bacon mornay sauce, bacon bits, and fresh herbs. One bite, an explosion of bacon cheese sauce in the mouth.

Tortilla Espanol-Having cooked in Spain, this dish is close to me. Egg, potato, and yellow onion cake stamped into one bite circles, with a beautiful paprika aioli on top.

Vietnamese Spring Rolls-With Vietnam being my most desired travel destination, and Vietnamese cuisine being my favorite, this was an ode to the country and cuisine. Delicious and fresh. Rice paper, Vermicelli noodles, five spice marinated hanger steak(I know, not Vietnamese), pickled varieties of radish and cucumber, basil and cilantro.

Pork Tenderloin-Marinated in fall spices, red wine, whiskey, grilled, and served on crostini with my own apple butter. Out of season, but wonderful all the same.

PB&J Lollipop-Having eaten peanut butter and jelly every day in high school, and loving every single one, the flavors make sense and continually make me happy. Virginia peanut parfait, poached peeled noir grapes, stuck on a lollipop stick, dipped in mint scented and sweetened lamb fat, and rolled in chopped Virginia peanuts. Incredible.

Dill pound Cake-Inspired by Nordic flavors and mentor and friend Pastry Chef Chris Ford's Basil Pound Cake. Dill pound cake with a beautiful Cucumber foam.

                                                                                                                                         

Everything came out moderately well, execution could be enhanced and perfected, but proud nonetheless.



And as a matter of house keeping and keeping all five of my readers informed, I will be heading to Cabris, France, just north of Cannes on Tuesday the 21st. I will be cooking at a five room hotel, L'Auberge du Vieux Château, for the summer. Following my stint working, I hope to transfer to a vineyard in France or Italy for the crush, and learn the process of wine and importance of terroir through the fall season. I couldn't be more excited-or surprised, having just confirmed all the details a mere two weeks ago. Wish me luck, and see you soon! Spain, Denmark, and now France! My crazy dream from the high school years of traveling the world by cooking, has somehow become reality! More blog posts from France to come. 

Friday, May 27, 2011

A foraged dessert

Inspired by the season, and the wild things shooting about, I created a dessert using Wild Strawberries, Honeysuckle, and Wood Sorrel.

The concept came naturally, I have pondered for the last months about the use of Honeysuckle, why wasn't any kitchen using it, why not in their repertoire. For me, the blossom is quite nostalgic, bringing back memories as a little boy frolicking in fields, inundated by the fragrance from across the way, or whilst driving down a country road. Always plucking them from the bushes, only the golden, and stripping the stamen through the core to reveal the tiniest but most potent droplet of honey and floral like nectar. Beautiful.

And so they are in season, and I went about picking. With plans on making jams, teas, ice creams and sorbets out of them, I began noticing what was also out at the time, and what was living amongst the bushes.

First came the Wild Strawberries, mild in flavor, wonderful in mouth appeal, and growing everywhere. So I began picking them.  Another ingredient I have seen used very sparingly.

Amongst the Wild Strawberries came Wood Sorrel. Tart, a bit astringent, but with nice flavor.

The plate was born. I would compress the Wild Strawberries with a Honeysuckle syrup reduction, creating a more dense berry, with a bit more flavor. I created a strawberry jam, cooking the berries down with honey and a bit of sugar, water.



I made a beautiful and equally delicious sauce out of Wood Sorrel, and steeped cream with Honeysuckles to create a delicate ice cream.

The dessert came out, although execution could be amended a bit, otherwise the components and flavors are there. Not too sweet, but refreshing, natural, and memory transporting, something only the best food does.


Push the boundaries, what can't be used in pastry, and why can't one work on either side? Just need to work on creating perfect textured ice creams and sorbets, and quenelling :)

Saturday, May 7, 2011

New York City, Life

When a stagiare friend from Noma, coming out of DC (the only other East Coast acquaintance made?!) Johnny Spero, told me of the pop-up restaurant that Chef Rj Cooper and the team of the upcoming DC restaurant Rogue 24 would be doing, I instantly wanted to be involved.

A pop-up, the hyped culinary phenomena at the moment, is a temporary restaurant in any space imaginable, be it an old restaurant space is this was the case, or on a subway train. (seriously)

Not only a dream to work at a pop-up, but for heaven's sake NYC. The culinary capital of the world. Keller, Chang, Boulod, Liebrandt, Humm, the list could continue on forever. It is no exaggeration to say that if you can work and keep up with the New York kitchens and dining scene, you can work anywhere.

So a two week stint to taste the foundations of New York was a perfect step in. What an experience it was....a journey through the valleys and the mountains. The food was incredible, the team unrelenting, the acquaintances and press met astonishing, and memories never to be forgotten.

More detailed post to come..perhaps.

Enjoy the pictures shot by Chris Ford, over at http://butterloveandhardwork.typepad.com/ check it out, his blog is much more beautiful than mine.





Apparently I am a hand model now..

After a 5 hour layover in Dulles from Denmark, with no phone service, 6$ to my name, and no internet, this is the creative session that came from it. Don't steal my ideas! :)

PS: Did I mention I ate at Per Se?

Monday, February 21, 2011

Not a long one...


But a blog post nonetheless !

Had a nice weekend, my brother came to København for the days! He arrived Saturday morning, and I was hoping and trying to get him a reservation to eat at the restaurant. But due to no cancellations, he didn't get to eat at the restaurant-per se. Everyday at five we break for staff meal for 35 minutes, so he came and had staff dinner with us then! But before dinner I gave him a nice tour of the restaurant, and introduced him to many of the people! Was very nice!

Sunday we headed out early afternoon for a walking tour of the city, including seeing two of the palaces, the royal gardens, the original Carlsberg brewery and the current Jacobsen brewery! Nice place to visit, with a great area setup to look around and visit. Carlsberg as it turns out is very important to the city of København, and the history. The famous "Little Mermaid" in København? Purchased and donated to the city from Carl Jacobsen, son of the founder of Carlsberg. One of the highlights was a room explaining taste and the five senses and how they affect eating and drinking, and then a station set up with the 12 aromas found in the beers they produce, separated and able to be inhaled at once. Interesting! Also incredibly cool, "Bar Jacobsen" a cool, modern, sleek, bar located literally above and a glass wall away from the whole Jacobsen production for Carlsberg. Jacobsen is their craft and premium beer they produced, brewed only at that location. At the bar, they served Jacobsen beers, brewed mere meters away from where we sat.

Later we went to my favorite Vietnamese restaurant to meet up with a few other people from Noma, whom we spent the night around and about town with.

I spent my last week on snacks this week, as unexpectedly, I will be on "The Boat" next week! The boat is the location of Noma's research and development kitchen, with three chef's jobs dedicated to solely developing new dishes and researching techniques and ingredients. Located merely in front of the restaurant, docked in the canal with a view of the restaurant. This is where currently Chef Rene is spending most of his time. One stagiare at a time is allocated to the boat!

Anxious, nervous, proud, and excited I am! This is a cooks dream! The place of all (some) new happenings in the current culinary world, what the whole scene is talking about! Incredible!! Only El Bulli's El Taller compares! Perhaps the biggest and most important opportunity of my whole career! The dishes and sights I will see could be the next thing of the year! This is the birthplace of the dishes that launched the restaurant to number one in the world! Huge experience, and I begin in the morning! I hope I will gain much insight as to the creation and development of dishes, flavors, and foods, and what it takes!

Should be a very lovely week (a bit earlier hours, also?)! More coming very soon, stay tuned! Have a nice (warm) week! Two weeks remaining here!

Stay tuned for more information!

Collin


Monday, February 14, 2011

Addiction

There is something addicting about working an intense service at a restaurant. The pre-game of checking everything over, the routine of tasks needing to be done to be prepared. The look at the reservations, notes on any VIPS, special customers, dietary restrictions.


Go time. Checks start coming in. Before you know it you are no longer joking around with your colleagues but working alongside, heads down, making sure that one herb is standing perfectly, that everything is in line, finishing seasoning that plate. More and more comes in, you keep pushing. Sometimes, unluckily, a stutter occurs. A server took that plate to a wrong table. Or this table has a nut allergy, as discussed before service, but you forgot to make that special. And because of those moments of stutter, or maybe due to the mind, the rest of the service just isn't as smooth, paced. But you keep pushing.

Or sometimes you can run a perfect service. Happy with all of the plates, the way the sauce is falling. A perfect pace, one that keeps your working and focused throughout, busy enough to keep you going but not overwhelming. The energy acquired from a well working kitchen with equally passionate colleagues during its height at night is astonishing. The air feels like gold, the energy overwhelming. Your feet and hands move faster than ever before, standing those 25 pieces of micro cress up on the chestnut domino like dish in a mere minute and a half, a feat you could never conceive.

And then there's the post service, often with high fives and smiles all around. You did it again. Even with the stutter and maybe the collapse during service, most of the time the mood is quite upbeat. You clean the station, and then begin more mise en place for the next day, the prep list, and ordering.


Before you know it you are unbuttoning your jacket, walking home in the utter cold, thinking about the day, what could be done better, quicker, more efficiently. Thinking about what went wrong, and why, or how well the day went. Often thoughts about how tired or hungry you may be find their way to the head also. But mostly thoughts of the day are running through the head on the now appreciated culmination of the day walk through København south en route to home.

Its addicting, the lifestyle, however intense it may be. There is something about working with such intensity day in and out, working the services and seeing happy faces in the dining rooms. The drive and dedication it takes, the friendships made, the touching of wonderful ingredients and produce, producing things that taste wonderful. I thought about these thoughts quite randomly yesterday, after waking up from sleeping nearly all day(until 8PM). I woke up, and thought about the tiring week, but was energized by the thought of the restaurant, and my heart warmed to the thought of cooking.

Hope the above thoughts weren't weird, just started writing! Here onto other thoughts

The past two weeks I have been in Toast University 101. The station that is responsible for the first 8 bites of the meal, labeled snacks. :

Moss and cep
Seabuck thorn leather and pickled rose hips
Cookie with lardo and currant
Fried leek and garlic
Rye bread, chicken skin, lovage, and smoked cheese
Pickled and smoked quails egg
Radish, turnip and carrot, soil and herbs
Toast, herbs, smoked cod roe and vinegar

The final snack, a crisp, wavy, toast made from a simple bread, dotted lavishly with a smoked cod roe emulsion, covered "forest-like" with a multifarious array of herbs including but not limited to: sorrel, lemon verbena and balm, chickweed, water cress, carrot tops, chervil, and dill, finished with shaken vinegar powder and a crisp duck "skin", made from the film that forms on top of duck stock.


The picture may or may not do justice, but each one of these can take up to four minutes time, depending on the herbs and skill of producer. This combined with the attention this one snack gets on its perfection from both chef de parties and expediters, about the mere length, amount of dots, size of herbs, and placement on plate, it becomes a real time consumer. During services, there are two full time cooks doing this all service long, with more hands coming in when needed. I got a "Herb toasts look good today" from Rene himself!

Snacks is a fun station to work, you are a part of service everyday, and there is always something to do. This week was beyond intense, as Rene was back for the first time in the new year. The mood was much more concentrated, serious, extreme. It was beyond stressful walking toasts up with the man of the restaurant there at the past, look with eagle eyes at his creation that you just created with the guidance from his workers. Interesting guy, perhaps I will tell more about him at a later date.

This coming week I will be plating:

Seabuckthorn leathers with pickled in-season rose petals from the coast,

Radishes, Carrots, and Turnips in a pot, with foamed herb emulsion and malt "soil"

And many of the other snacks, here and there.

The past weeks have been nice, the weather the past week was creeping on warm, with the sun out on most days! Nice! But this weekend coming into this week it is cold, and suppose to stay cold, with snow forecasted (for the first time in two weeks?) on Wednesday.

On Sunday, a large group, American and not, went to a local pub and watched the superbowl! Was a nice experience, many in the group had never seen a game before, didn't know the rules, etc. The place was packed, as were many of the other places with tv's around town. Many Americans were out, didn't know so many were in København! Also during the evening, my birthday hit!...

Monday was my birthday, which turned out to be a bit nicer than I had anticipated! Woke up late and relaxed, then made dinner for and with my roommates (French student and Ivorian mom). Got a present, to-go coffee mug! Had a cake, ate a nice large salad, Aglio olio e Pepperoncino, a beef and rice dish, grapes, and participated in "hygge" ! As defined by wikipedia: "One of the fundamental aspects of Danish culture is "hygge", which, although translated as "coziness" is more akin to "tranquility". Hygge is a complete absence of anything annoying, irritating, or emotionally overwhelming, and the presence of and pleasure from comforting, gentle, and soothing things. Hygge is often associated with family and close friends. Christmas time when loved ones sit close together with candles lit on a cold rainy night is "hygge", as is grilling a pølse (Danish sausage) on a long summer evening. These examples, although they do not precisely define "hygge", can give an English speaker an idea of a deeply valued traditional concept of Danish culture.[4]"

Was nice, sitting, talking for a long while around the table during and after a nice meal. Thank you everyone from the US who remembered and wished me a happy birthday! I expect presents and celebrations when I return! 20, not a good age, just doesn't sound as good as 19 and in Denmark cooking. 20 puts me with the rest, I have to act civilized now! ah!

I have found a few places that I really enjoy, including a nice vietnamese restaurant. Hip place, delicious food, and good for Copenhagen standerds service. (The service here is really, really horrible. Incredible that they are allowed to get by with it, really.)

Hit and reckoning with the one month homesickness, I miss all of my family and friends! No relationship can equate to those developed in Midlothian and Richmond.

Starting to hit anxiety about what is next, after Noma. May have an in with an incredible restaurant in Australia, but don't know yet. Had a talk with a few people at Noma on Saturday evening about being an American and trying to work in Europe, seems from their perspective harder than I had thought. We will see.

My best friend from the street I grew up on and lived at for my whole life, Emma is coming to Copenhagen on my last day of work for a week! She will try to eat at the restaurant, and we are planning what else to do whilst she is here! So utterly exciting, can't believe she is coming!

More than a month has already flown by here, quite incredible really how it is flying by. One month remaining! I will hope to blog more in the coming weeks, for sure.


Also, more pictures should be posted in the future, as my wonderful aunt from Washington has a camera En route for me! Incredible! I am in debt to you !

Thanks for reading, talk soon!