Saturday, December 24, 2011

Hope

I hope that you, too, in these days of the holiday will have your thoughts and prayers with those protecting our daily freedoms abroad. I cannot imagine spending the day apart from family and friends, in a less than ideal "home" in the middle of the dessert. A day marked so much with tradition, family, and friends, my heart goes to those abroad.

Below I have included a video from my brother Nathan's platoon, Cold Steel, that they made to wish their family and friends Happy Holidays from.

Happy Holidays to you, Cold Steel, and thank you for service. Thank you does not do justice to what you all do daily, and I hope to show my admiration and respect for your work in the future.


When I asked my brother today if they will be having any sort of special meal for Christmas, he said yes they will, and he hoped it would be something a bit better than what they normally had. 


Thanks for your support, 
-Collin

Monday, December 5, 2011

The Process

Today my writing drifts away from food and into the realm of wine, and the process thereof.

As many of you know, I spent two weeks in the south of France close to Avignon at the end of September and into October working on the harvest team at Domaine Rouge Bleu. A long time dream of my own to work a harvest and learn the process of wine, the importance of terroir, work needed to produce a bottle or vintage of wine, and generally be surrounded by vineyards for a few weeks. With the networking help of Julia Battaglini, my former boss at Secco Wine Bar, and now mentor-friend, and the contact of Nicolas Mestre at Williams Corner wine distributors, my dream was made reality.

I don't know that I could have landed at a better vineyard, with such a hospitable and great group of people. Two weeks of hard work, but an incredible time was had with much learned about wine and the processing required. I hadn't any idea when arriving what to expect. How do we pick the grapes? Are there bad grapes? What does a vine look like? What will they taste like? What happens after picking? Millions of thoughts racing through my brain, I arrived and learned bushels upon bushels of knowledge, furthering my deep passion for fine wine.







The man himself! Picking Lunatique.


Jean-Marc Espinasse, Vigneron of Rouge Bleu, produces wines that are made in the fields and not in the cave. What does that mean? He produces wines with the littlest human interaction possible. No herbicides sprayed in the fields, little to no sulfur in the tanks, and with wild herbs and weeds growing amongst the 80+ year old vines. Perhaps one of the most incredible experiences of the weeks was tasting his top wine, Lunatique 2009, and in the aroma finding layer upon layer of eucalyptus, mint, thyme, and wild arugula. Then whilst picking the 13 rows of vines in the old river bed in one afternoon to produce the whole production of 120 cases of the wine, in the mistral or breeze of the Rhone valley comes distinct aromas identical to that found in the wine earlier the in the week. Time and place, the truest expression of the land, is omnipresent in his wines. Brilliant, remarkable, mind blowing, beautiful. 




So picking from the vines, what do we take? Everything. From the snails found on the clusters in Chateaunuef-du-Pape, to the Botrytis-ridden raisins aka gold as Jean Marc calls them. Even the raisins on the ground, and if someone were to miss them and Chief Grape saw, he would become very irritated. The raisins don't bring any juice to the wine, but bring great concentrated sugars and aromas. Not wanted in coop wines, but gold to a small all natural producer. Perhaps what sets him apart? The only grapes that were left behind were the clusters that were reminiscent of vinegar, indicating spoilage(found in tiny minuscule amounts in my experience).

Our best friends for two weeks,
Secatateurs
How do we pick? Simple, really, with our Secateurs, or clippers. Clipping as close to the cluster as possible, and putting into our handy buckets that need to be dumped often to the tractor. With smaller clusters or the Carignan grapes, we could forgo the Secateurs and easily pick with our hands, pulling directly from the vine with little harm to the clusters or vines.

The day is done, the grapes have been picked and transported back to the Cuvée. At the cave, with the help of multiple people, the grapes are gently transported from the trailer to the cement fermentation tank via a rotating screw and hose connecting the trailer to tank. The screw in the bottom of the hopper is powered by the tractor. No de-stemming, no washing, minimal crushing, au natural. Chief Grape believes deeply in the stems providing body and tannins that help the wine age and provide structure at years later. A belief that newer generation Bordeaux wines lack in age-ability due to the de-stemming and desire from producer for their wines to be drinkable at a young age. The cement tanks being also unique, provide pores and a bit more aeration occurring during primary and secondary fermentations. (This process of transferring the grapes is viewable in the below video.)

Before pumping the grapes into the tank, an all-natural "filter" is put just in front of the valve that is used to release the juice from the tanks. What did we use? Rocks, and bundles of asparagus ferns found all around the vineyard.

From that point juice is pumped over the must daily in order to have fermentation happen throughout. The juice is tasted daily, with the *Brix or percent of sugar content in the juice is taken. From the percent sugar of the juice, the likely final alcohol content can be calculated. Primary fermentation before filtering and pressing is decided by taste and *Brix, but normally is between two and three weeks.

The Press
When Mr. Espinasse decides he is happy with primary fermentation, the juice is filtered and immediately pumped into a second tank. Then, the marc, or remaining grape solids are pumped to a press. Not an easy task in the least, with the eventual person being in the fermentation tank shoveling alcohol fuming marc into the pump to be pumped the press. Grape stained clothes, hands, and legs occur here! The press could be described as a cylinder with closing sides on each end, with trough, hose, and pump connecting it to the tank with the already filtered juices. A majority of the tannin, flavor, and colour comes from these pressings. If I am not mistaken, Chief Grape presses the marc twice before refusing of the now dry stems and skins.

Oak Barrels
Depending on the wine, but most likely six more months in the cement fermentation tanks, and the wine is then transferred to oak barrels to undergo six more months of aging and fermentation. A process known as racking is undergone during both transfers, leaving the bottom portion of the tank behind undisturbed as it contains sediment that has dropped off from the liquid over time.

Bottling. Over a year after the grapes have been picked and processed, the now wine is ready to be bottled. Done in one or two days, a sort of mobile bottling truck as I understand comes to the cave, and it is all corked and set on its side. Officially unfiltered, drinking the wine you can expect to find

Storage of unlabeled bottles, Domaine du Banneret,
Chateauneuf-du-Pape

 a bit of sediment in the bottom of the bottles. Bottled, but unlabeled, for if it were labeled the taxes are due at that point. Hand labeled as it is sold, and sent to the United States, all across Europe, Australia, and perhaps a future in Japan.



Domaine Rouge Bleu


The first day, tragedy struck.

Full buckets.

80 year old vines.


Fermentation

Hopper with screw

Hatch on cement fermentation tanks.

Old school press used at Domaine du Banneret. 






Morning dew covers grapes.

The field of Lunatique, one afternoons work. 

On the final day we picked in the morning hours of 6-9,
and that evening from 6-9. Here is the sunrise, with
a beautiful cluster of Grenache.
From vine to bottle, Jean Marc shows ingenuity, passion for natural wines, and the process thereof. I urge you to search out a shop or distributor close to you and drink something that I am certainly proud to have been a part of, and Jean Marc surely is as well. Information on his wines, vineyard, and places to purchase is all located on his website, http://www.rouge-bleu.com/. A perfect wine to pair with your holiday meals, that is for sure!

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

A Cook's Statement

I cook for the simple act of making people happy. Indeed I have an insatiable addiction to cooking, kitchens, and delicious products, but no matter the food or circumstance, the daily pursuit towards perfection is in the direction of creating as near a perfect experience for the guest who has put their self in the kitchen's will. There is nothing more rewarding to me than the smile of pleasure or invoked memory that I can produce from food on a plate. No other art can touch a person's soul as deeply as a dish that conjures childhood memories, or a memorable morsel from a meal in the past. That is where from deep inside myself I find the drive and passion to continue pushing myself through the stressful hours of a painful service, and in the early morning hours find myself researching a technique or ingredient. It is through the increasing knowledge and experience gained, while on my free time at home, or in a country abroad, that helps mold an ever evolving-and hopefully increasingly better- experience for whomever is eating my food.

Monday, November 7, 2011

Hospitality

As I've said before, service in a restaurant can only hope to be equally as good as the hospitality provided by moms around the world on a daily basis. 


Marco and Chef-Friend Stanley, in his wine bar, Barcelona
But now I plan to expand this statement, to hospitality provided by people, friends, acquaintances around the world that I have experienced throughout my travels. 


The best way to see a new place, to experience the culture, eat the food that the locals are eating, is to have a friend in the location that you are traveling. In no other way can you experience a place as well as if you have someone willing to host and show you around. Luckily enough, with my travels I have mostly had wonderful people willing to give me a small view into their culture, life, and eats. 



Tapas, Barcelona
When moments after arriving somewhere and dropping your bags someone is beckoning for you to get ready to go back out, to rent a bike, to go eat, you know you are in for a good time. Renting a bike in Barcelona, having a local show you their hangout spots, where they go, what they do, and when they do it, is a remarkable experience. And the bike tour couldn't be complete without multiple stops for tortilla, a drink, or the main event stop at their favorite tapas bar. 


Upon seating at the prime location of the bar, in the to-the-street-bustling restaurant, I left all the ordering to my friend Marco, and the tapas seemed to never stop coming! Gambas, Sollomillo, Queso Fresco, Tortilla Patata, Crema Catalana, Estrella, Patatas Bravas...euphoria......






To getting woken up in the morning in a small German village, with the mention of a classic German breakfast awaiting especially acquired for me: Dark Breads, White Breads, Käse,  Leberwürste, Wurste, Sausages, Leberwürste, Leberwürste, did I mention the Leberwürste? 


Perhaps the best thing I ate on my three and a half month voyage de Europe...smokey, fatty, unctuous, umami laden, spicy, this pork liver infused spreadable pate smeared generously on some wonderful rye bread, this my dear friends is what dreams are made of. It kept me coming again and again. The day that the opportunity arises to eat that mouth-watering, swine-lovers cured Christmas will be a day that I very much look forward to. 


Linsensuppe


Having a stew made specifically by my request prepared by a German grandmother was also a very, very memorable meal. Linsensuppe, or lentil soup with potatoes and spicy German Frankfurters, was an hour event that will be remembered for as long as I can remember. 


Kuchen, kuchen, it kept on flowing. Apparently when one celebrates a birthday in Germany it is expected to receive and eat multiple pieces of cake throughout the day. It flows endlessly, all served with copious amounts of coffee. A sugar and caffeine induced celebration is assuredly acquired. Birthday jitters? Or sugar-caffeine IV to the main-vein coma? Gooseberries cake made from berries in the garden, with whipped cream, almond meringue, next up dark chocolate-raspberry and alcohol soaked, there was a rum cake, and an apple cake, and perhaps one might have slipped the memory. Kuchen, would you like more cake? Here, have a piece of this. Coffee? Want a refill? Flowing with no end in sight. 




Gooseberry Kuchen, Großmutter


Chateau Rayas 2001





"I have something very special to open tonight." Wait, so the other '89's, 91's, and never-see-again, super obscure, tiny production wines weren't special that you've opened the other nights? To say that the 2001 Reserve Chateau Rayas Chateauneuf-Du-Pape that was opened at the Harvest 2011 Dinner was special would be an understatement. The one bottle that the winemaker would sell to our humble leader after tasting in his cave, and in Jean Marc's "Top 10" wines of his cellar, it was a very special wine indeed. Complex, perfectly balanced, rounded from the age, it was an incredible wine that will never be forgotten. 








Macaroons!
A tour of Cannes from a local violinist who I had started talking to a mere week before. But through the kindness of her heart, a mere day before I was leaving the area, she wanted to show me the city she called home. First stop on the tour was her favorite macaroon shoppe, one that will forever live in infamy in my head due to their creation of Foie Gras Macaroons with Apple filling. Out of this world. I have reached the mountain top with that, how can I live on knowing that that is existing and I am not indulging? A tour through the main streets on Cannes, continuing through the old part of the city, through the bustling, fig laden market and the consumption of numerous fresh fruits and indulgences, a dive into the beautiful blue salty sea, an incredible day, all thanks to a warm, hospitable, passionate lady who wanted to show me her culture, what she knew, what she grew up with. 






After a morning of picking in Chateauneuf-Du Pape,
 a Quiche was prepared



There is no better feeling than having someone say they have a special something prepared for you to eat, an agenda for the day that they are excited about, a person that they insist upon you meeting. Furthermore, the mere arrangements that they have made for you to be able to stay with them. It is a feeling of warmth, one created by hospitality and service for others. 




I urge you all to one day travel somewhere and have a local show you around, take you to their favorite places, ask them where they hang out. You won't be disappointed. 


 The best travel is only achievable with a willingness to let go of all pre-notions and leadership, to place your agenda, meals, with someone who is passionate and excited to show you and let you into their daily lives and culture. 



And if I am in the situation to host you, feel free to ask and come on over! I hope I can return the hospitality that has been shown to me throughout the world. 
Mid-Harvest dinner, Jean Marc let us each pick
a bottle from his cave, mine, a '91 Margaux


More to come. 

Now Playing: Ingrid Michaelson- "You and I"

Friday, October 21, 2011

Is There More to It?

I began cooking with the intent of becoming successful. Not successful for personal satisfaction, to make those who know me proud, nor money. With the intent and theory that to have the widest impact on the world, to elevate the quality of life for the most souls living about, the easiest route to do so would be to become a big name, using my then fame, success, and resources then to touch the widest audience.

It eats at my soul knowing that some of us daily have the luxury of choosing what we want to eat, sometimes in fancy restaurants, sometimes what to cook that evening, sometimes purchasing a product from a far off land that is luxurious. And knowing that others, many, many others in the world, are wondering where their next meal will come from, what it will be, and some even perishing due to lack of food.

Today, the twenty first century, and many in the world don't even have the means to stay alive.  What an incredible, and stunning, extreme difference of societies that coexist.

I love cooking. I love working in restaurants. I love the life that they cultivate. I love cooking incredible food, seeing what can be done with food, using incredible products to create pleasure to a guest by means of food. But at times, during those day in and days out at the restaurant, I question whether there is more, whether I could do more in those hours. Should I wait to see if that success happens, or do I go down a path helping others immediately.

A dilemma to be in, one that will surely affect my future decisions as far as the path of my career goes.

One day, sooner or later, I will help people through food. It's only a matter of when.

What's Next?!

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Oh my, how far we've come!


"belles fringues"


The first day of harvest (Part II) ended with a blast! And a down-on-his-luck Chief Grape drove, with a flat-tire, two hours beneath the darkening, cold sky. The harvesters waited for him, .......


Check out this lovely blog, written by Jean Marc's wife, Kristin, which the latest post details the first hours of the harvest! I find her writing so very elegant, some of the best! 

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Respect

When I first arrived at the idea of working on a vineyard for the harvest, one of the main reasons is that I wanted to learn what it takes. The amount of work needed for one bottle of wine, the importance and expression of terroir, how the personality of a winemaker affects the wine.

Respect has become the biggest theme that I have taken out of the first four days here. The thought that we are picking from vines that are 79 years old-nearly four times that life of my own, is mind blowing. The vines that have survived and tended from all those years.

Respect for the natural process that Jean Marc at Rouge Bleu has dedicated his vineyard to. Vines growing amongst meadows. The sometimes rough but unique and personality giving of the rock bed terroir.

Respect for Jean Marc's livelihood. The dedication and work that he puts throughout the year for the two weeks of action in the fall. The counting on the team that he meets a mere day before beginning the two weeks of harvest. My respect for him is so overwhelming, that perhaps out of habit but also for the feeling, I find myself calling him Chef. The respect is garnered by the wonderful product he creates yearly. His rejection to classic means of production, the saying no to pesticides. The kind and caring way he treats his team, the hospitality he and his wife Christie have shown. The fearless and unrelenting leader.

And respect counts. I feel it everyday when I feel tired, feel an ounce of laziness. It motivates you to pick  your grapes as fast as possible, being sure not to miss a single one. For the vines are 79 years old, they have survived and been tended to for longer than my lifetime, it is the least I can do to give it my all. Respect keeps you going in times of low, creates a humble and positive work environment.

Full circle, I realize that in the highest points of my kitchen times, respect is there. Respect for the ingredients, as they so much work has been put into them to get into the kitchen. Respect for my peers and for the leader whom I am working for. Through doing the manual labor of picking and tending to the vines here, I will forever be marked with a respect for quality produce and products. The work and time spent for it to get to my use, it deserves the best. In the kitchens where my mood was low, respect was absent.




My time thus far working on the vineyard has truly been magnificent. I have seen so much, developed respect, tasted so many wondeful things. I can't wait to post pictures and update you all on more! Internet is limited here, and we are very busy! But more posts and pictures to come soon!

Thursday, September 15, 2011

København

The fastest, most efficient, best cook I have ever had the chance to work with..Leonardo, from Portugal. Coolest guy ever. I aspire to be as good as he is one day.



In Germany right now! Spent a few days in Berlin. I am loving it here. On Saturday I will fly back to Nice, and Sunday I will take the train to Avignon to begin work at the vineyard!

Hopefully I will find sometime in the next days to write about Copenhagen and Germany. Leberwürst is very very delicious for breakfast!

Talk soon!

Thursday, September 1, 2011

One Chapter Closes, the Next Begins

Thursday, September 1st. Fall is in the air here in Cabris, France, my last full day here! Last night was my last service at the restaurant, I am officially finished! A sometimes seemingly long stint, it flew by, the two and a half months working here.

 
     Garde Mange view

Not the most enjoyable kitchen experience I have had, but still one that I learned from and am a better cook and person because of! Onto the next.

I am happy to say that I have an incredible month ahead! Tomorrow I will take the train to Nice, where I will meet up with a friend (who has been my neighbor for all my life), who happens to be studying in Genoa Italy for the semester. Nice is nearly the halfway point between Genoa and Cabris, and he happened to plan a trip to Nice the same weekend I was going to be available! Should be a wonderful weekend spent on the sea adjacent to city.

Monday I will fly to Copenhagen, where I will remain for a week. Another week at noma! I am beyond giddy with excitement to return, so curious
 to see what has changed in the past 5 months, see the different seasons menu, cook alongside the greatest team I have had the chance to work with, see the impeccable products once more, feel the energy of the "Best Restaurant" in the world once more! Stoked!

The following Tuesday I will fly to Berlin, spend a two or so days there, and then take the train to a small city where I have a friend from traveling a few years ago. I will be in Germany for five or six days, and then fly from Berlin to Nice.

From Nice I will take a train to the city of Avignon, just north of Marseille, on the 18th I am scheduled to report in the train station to be picked up and begin the work on the vineyard! I will be working for two week close to Avignon, for the crush of the grapes, learning the process, seeing the importance of terroir, learning what it takes to make a bottle of wine! A long time dream of mine, one of the goals of my life, to work on a vineyard. And its coming true! So curious and excited about those two weeks. Here is a link to the vineyard, http://www.rouge-bleu.com/, a small all natural vineyard producing a few different wines, all incredibly unique and top quality! Sold at Secco Wine Bar and River City Cellars(alma mater!), in Richmond!

I finish at the vineyard on the 3rd, and am planning on flying out of Barcelona back to the U.S. Expecting to return around the 5th or so, we will see!

Excited for what should be an educational, cultural, and fun filled month ahead. Hope to provide you all with pictures and stories from the sites I see!

Talk soon

Sunday, August 28, 2011

The moments

The tapas in Spain. Perhaps the most perfect time and place meal that I have had in my lifetime.

Riding a bike next to the beaches of Mallorca with bleu waters, with the city of Palma on the opposite side, and mountains in view.

Feeling the sense of camaraderie, of personal happiness, and well being, that those in Spain feel on a daily basis.

Watching a Spaniard teach me how to make the perfect Tortilla Espanol, with no communication, as I speak no Spanish and he no English. The emotion and love put into the simple dish of Eggs, Potatoes, and Olive oil.

Braving the ruthless winter winds and snows everyday in the trek to and forth, the best restaurant in the world. Noma.

Eating a Smorrebrød with my brother in Denmark.

Spending a weeks time in perhaps the most sought after kitchen in the world, the one who is most looked upon next as to whats the food trend. The boat at Noma, ie the development and test kitchen of the World's Best Restaurant.

With no more than $100 dollars for the week, eating some of the best tasting and exciting food of my life, in Istanbul.

A weeks time in Istanbul with no one but myself, and being entertained, curious, and excited, seeing the busiest city of my life.

Drinking wine in France.

Eating nothing more than Baguette, Cheese, Grapes, and Figs for lunch.

Experiencing a true French kitchen, with guidelines and attitudes as one might expect coming into France.




Although I sometimes might seem to not enjoying myself, one must always look at the big picture, more than the moments or days that aren't the most joyful.

The moments, tastes, and lessons I have learned learned thus far on my travels have been beyond my wildest dreams. The  highest highs and the lowest lows, the most excited flavors and the most disappointing dishes.

But one always learns from every moment, takes something from it. Becomes faster and better at a task, learns a new flavor or combination, learns a new culture or a few words in a new language.

And I can't wait to see what's next.

Three days and four services left here in Cabris. A quite exciting month ahead it seems.

A longer post to come, thank you all for the support. I can't wait to update you.

Sincerely,

Collin



Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Questions and Answers..


Catching Up with the Travelling Cook: Collin Wagner

Photo Credit- Chris Ford
If you don’t know Collin, he has made the most of his post high days by traveling the world, gaining interesting experiences in different locations with the hopes of someday becoming a head chef somewhere. Collin is currently in France and he was kind enough to answer these few questions with me.....


http://www.themarinara.com/2011/08/17/collin_wagner/

Thanks Matt for the questions, made me laugh.

Saturday, August 6, 2011

Press

Recently, the restaurant here in Cabris was featured in the local (with a very high percentage of circulation) newspaper, called the Nice-Matin.

I haven't been able to find the article on the newspaper's website, but here is a picture of the article and photo of the staff.



-Wearer of blue aprons.

"According to French culinary tradition, white aprons are reserved for those who have ascended to the level of chef, having completed a journey that began as an apprentice wearing a blue apron. But within the kitchen of any Thomas Keller restaurant, everyone from the commis to the chef de cuisine, wears a blue apron during the hours prior to service, changing into white only once service begins.


While respect for tradition is a common thread among the kitchen staff, what's just as important is the desire to constantly learn. Everything can always be done a little better. Everyone can always learn something new. It's that constant exploration that allows the experience to continually evolve. Assuming an apprentice's mindset for a little bit each day is a reminder of that." -The French Laundry

Saturday, July 30, 2011

An Era Ends

This evening, Saturday, July 30, 2011, comes the final service, the final dishes served, in what is the current and known identity of El Bulli in Roses, Spain. Ranked the number one restaurant in the world for five years, El Bulli changed the dining landscape of the world, whether you know of the restaurant and or not.

Ferran Adria, the driving force and Chef behind the restaurant, came to the restaurant in 1984, taking charge of the kitchen in 1987. He did not however gain popularity until the late 1990's and early 2000. Known for foams and transformations of food, Ferran is noted on starting the now popular food movement coined "Molecular Gastronomy," a term that Ferran objects to.

Without a doubt in my mind, Ferran is the single most important Chef in the history of cooking. Sure Escoffier, Keller, others are very important. But who else in the industry has made such dramatic changes to the landscape? Who else has questioned the limits of food, and pushed things year in and year out, to higher limits. Who else has made as huge of an impact on the industry?

During Junior year of High School, is when the passion and throbbing heartache of day in and day out thoughts of cooking and restaurants began. I was taking culinary classes at the local technical center, working dinner services at The Can Can Brasserie in downtown Richmond, and when the day was over at nearly 11 or 12 at night I would jump on the internet and research various foods, techniques, chefs, or anything that my education or time in the restaurant had me note to research later and learn about. During this time period is when I first learned about El Buli, from San Pellgrinio's Best Restaurant's list. When I first began reading about the restaurant, and seeing pictures of the food, I was in a euphoric state. Here I was in Richmond, Virginia, seeing what I thought was THE food industry, classic French cuisine, classic techniques, and I see pictures of a Spanish chef flipping everything on it's head.

Foams as sauces? Hot gelees? Caviar pearls of apple? A green pea ravioli, encased in itself? How is this food possible? And how haven't I seen any of it? This Chef, was taking any rules and throwing them away, asking why is this always used in this way? How can we best show this ingredient. I was truly inspired. Beyond inspired, ecstatic, I couldn't sleep.

Amongst my never-ending searches and views of any information I could find, I stumbled upon Anthony Bourdain's 2001 film "Decoding Ferran Adria." A film that forever changed me.

Certainly watched over 50 times, perhaps 100 times, the one hour, now outdated, special by Anthony Bourdain, was one of the most important pieces of my beginnings. It showed me that beyond the limits of Richmond chefs were using their creativity, questioning everything they had once learned, working in a collaboration instead of the classic hierarchy system.

The film and everything and anything I could find on the restaurant, fueled my desire to see more, learn more, and question what the possibilities of food could be.

Having never made it to the restaurant, it will forever haunt me that I never got to experience the most important restaurant in history. Ferran plans to re-open in 2014 with the space being a some what altered state, currently called the El Bulli Foundacion, it is said it will be a creativity center.

This coming Monday, August 1st, Anthony Bourdain is releasing a second episode centered around El Bulli, this time a "Last Meal." You should watch it, without a doubt it will be a historic and monumental video. And one that will be close to my heart.

Thanks Ferran and all those who have worked at El Bulli, you forever changed the landscape of dining, and inspired many without even knowing.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

The beginnings of a cook, the beginnings of passion and hospitality,

For a love, passion, and desire for good food and cooking, began long ago, the days when I was young and an active soccer player. This I realized today during staff meal, after recreating one of my mother's classic dishes, named Chicken and Rice. Really, it is that simple, chicken with a mixed medley of vegetables, plethora of white rice, and topped with cheddar cheese and bread crumbs.


When confronted with the task of creating this evenings family meal at the restaurant, on hand we had guinea fowl, already cooked farro, mixed vegetables. And thus came forth in my head an European version of my mom's classic dish. In place of rice farro, instead of cheddar parmesan, holding steady for the chicken was guinea fowl. I told the story when presenting the food, making it more than food to those being served. Heart was in the food, a story, history. 


The team loved it, and it even brought me back to the meals from my home. Although Chicken and Rice was never a favorite or requested from me, it is my sister Morgann's favorite, and a very memorable one of my own. With four kids to take around to the various soccer fields, volleyball courts, and other events, the food my mom prepared was simple, quick, usually all in one, and healthy. But always delicious and home-y.

This hospitality, simplicity, was the foundation of where my love of good food and cooking came from I have come to realize. This thought now makes me giddy inside due to nostalgia: during the fall, a full day of school, soccer practice for school immediately following, and then a mere hour or so after that one finished, another soccer practice to attend. And finally, after the full day of non stop activity, I would return home, and a meal to be eaten with the family or ready to be eaten solo, was there, the smells permeating all the way to the street. Always hungry, and ready for a warm meal after the day, it was at that point of the day that I was most appeased, and happy. That state of content was exasperated in the fall, with the cooler temperatures outside, warm inside, and my favorite foods abounding. Baked potatoes, sweet potatoes, and pastas with vegetables were some of the more memorable.

The sense of content, of how much joy that evening meal was after the long days, the hospitality, is where it all began.

Thanks, and love, family.





Monday, July 11, 2011

At a loss..





 View from Cabris...

As to what a new post should be....don't want to do an old update of the happenings day and day out here, as it is a bit repetitive... imagination and creativity have been flowing the last two days, however.

The past two days have been the best here thus far..

                      Some pictures to sustain all hundreds of my dedicated and passionate readers...

Violet Macaroon in Grasse..




Lavender; everywhere..












wild fennel grows..




markets in Cabris..



Kitchen. 

Now Listening: Rhianna-Man Down